Instruction: assembly of the wardrobe do-it-yourself

When taking measurements, we take into account the location of the heating pipes and other communications, which may require amendments to the circuit.

We leave one compartment under long clothes on hangers. The second compartment in the center will be for shelves and drawers. The third compartment will be designed for small shelves and space for an ironing board.

If the assembly of the cabinet is carried out for the first time, contact your furniture factory with your project, where you will be made to order a set of cabinet furniture for self-assembly.

Training

Before assembly, carefully inspect the installation location of the cabinet. Using the building level, evaluate whether the floor and walls are even in this place. As far as possible, eliminate the disadvantages: the smoother the surfaces, the more reliably the cabinet will fall into place.

Be sure to solve the issue with the baseboard. If your cabinet has a baseboard for the baseboard - fine. If not, either make it, or remove the baseboard so that the furniture stands exactly against the wall.

Prepare the necessary tools for assembly:

• Screwdriver, screwdrivers of various types,
• Rotary hammer (may be required for the installation of built-in cabinets),
• Ruler, tape measure, construction level, “corner”,
• Pencil or felt-tip pen,
• Hammer,
• Fasteners: nails, bolts, screws, dowel plugs, etc. For fastening parts from furniture panels, you need confirmations (euroscrews), if furniture from chipboard or chipboard - self-tapping screws are useful),
• To fasten a number of parts, glue is needed, and for the installation of the finishing edge - an iron.

It is advisable that you have at hand a cabinet assembly diagram with a description of all the details. If you have a factory manual, read it carefully.

General sequence of work

To assemble the cabinet correctly, it is best to get down to business with an assistant. An ordinary cabinet can be assembled immediately against the wall, or you can assemble a box on the floor. Experts recommend the second option, because it turns out more evenly. True, not every room is enough for this place.

First, the bottom, side walls, cover are interconnected. Then the back wall is attached (usually it is made of a thin sheet of fiberboard).

Next, the shelves are going. Usually they are mounted on special corners and collected from the bottom up. If the shelves are complex (for example, with partitions), it is better to assemble them on the floor, and then assemble them ready-made in a cabinet.

In a wardrobe, kitchen or wardrobe often there are exit shelves that are rolled forward for ease of use. For them there is a special fittings. These are usually guides with small rollers. A guide is attached to the side walls of the cabinet, and a part with a roller is attached to the shelf.

The most important thing is that the guides are fixed exactly at the same height, and the guide that goes into the depth of the cabinet is located strictly horizontally.

Metal baskets (for linen, accessories or shoes) are attached in a similar pattern if they are pulled out. If the baskets are stationary, a metal holder is installed for them, and then they are hung with hooks.

Drawers are a separate issue. The drawer frame is assembled outside. To do this, the side and rear walls are fastened together. Then the bottom is attached. After that, a handle is attached to the facade of the future box, and then everything is connected together with the box.

A metal rail is installed on the side walls of the cabinet to which the box will be attached. The second part of the guide with a small wheel is attached to the side walls of the box at the right height.

A box with a hinged lid is made using the facade and gas lift. First, a handle is attached to the facade, then fittings are installed.Most often, a round part with a sleeve is attached to the sides of the future box, and hook-shaped fasteners are attached to the facade.

Experts unanimously recommend installing gas lifts on both sides of the box. If you do this on the one hand, the facade will eventually "go away" to the side.

The skill of installing drawers and folding drawers will help you make a cabinet with a bedside table. The built-in cabinet below is usually made up of large-width shelves that are closed by swing or folding doors.

After shelves and drawers can be installed in the cabinet rods, if they are provided by the scheme.

If you are assembling a built-in wardrobe, most mounts will mount directly to the wall. You can make it without a back wall - then you just need to attach the sidewalls (if you do not have a niche) and shelves to the walls. If you want the built-in cabinet to look more solid, make the back wall of the fiberboard sheet.

When all the cabinet filling is assembled, you can proceed with the installation of the doors.

Tricks from the masters

It is impossible to list all the nuances of a cabinet assembly in one article. A lot depends on the design of the product. However, there are a number of life hacks that furniture collectors often use to cope with the task quickly and accurately.

If the cabinet has a large back wall made of fiberboard, it will have to be attached not only to the lid, bottom and walls, but also to some shelves. Since nails have to be driven in from the back, they often "go" to the side. Masters advise, before attaching the fiberboard sheet to the back of the cabinet, mark the sides of the walls and shelves. And then, having applied the fiberboard, transfer the mark to it. You can safely drive in a nail according to the mark, not being afraid that he will “move out”.

If there is a cabinet at the bottom of the cabinet and you decide to put something heavy on it (for example, a TV), it is important that it does not bend under weight. In this case, it is advisable to disassemble the cabinet and place the partition inside. There will be two compartments inside the cabinet, but the top cover will receive an additional stiffener. The facade can be single.

When assembling furniture, you often have to work with confirmations, which are twisted with a hex key. This device is very small, and holding it in your hands is inconvenient. So that the fingers do not get tired, the masters advise cutting off a piece of the tube from the felt-tip pen and putting it on one of the ends of the key.

Aluminum profiles are usually sold in plastic wrap. Furniture assemblers recommend removing it only when the profile is finally mounted in a cabinet. Drilling and sawing parts is best straight through the film - so there is less chance of scratching the metal surface. As a result, aluminum inserts will be not only the basis for sliding doors, but also a shiny metal finish on the cabinet.

On how to assemble a wardrobe at home, see the following video.

Tools and materials

Among all types of products for storing clothes, the leading place today is occupied by the wardrobe. It is multifunctional, roomy, is available in various shapes and sizes, and also does not require additional space for opening doors. That is why most people when choosing between a wardrobe and a wardrobe prefer the latter option.

Assembling a sliding wardrobe with your own hands on the video presented is quite simple - for this it is enough to have the necessary tools in the apartment and be familiar with the design of the product. Often when ordering a cabinet without the services of assemblers, companies send a document in which there is a drawing of the product. It also lists all the component parts that are numbered in order. Looking at the picture and comparing the elements of the cabinet, you can intuitively assemble the product.

To work according to the assembly scheme of the sliding wardrobe, the following tools will be required:

• construction level - to check the evenness of the installation parallel to the floor,
• corner
• rubber and ordinary hammer,
• straight and Phillips screwdriver,
• roulette,
• pencil and ruler
• screwdriver
• wood drill - to make holes,
• metal drill - for installing an aluminum base.

Of the additional tools for assembling furniture yourself, a jigsaw, drill and sandpaper can come in handy. It is also necessary to prepare all the details of the cabinet, and this means - check the scheme for matching the number of items. Pay attention to accessories and mechanisms: if there are drawers in the cabinet, ball guides should be included.

Doors for the product are often delivered ready-made. They have pre-installed rollers and a strip of soft material. It is necessary to mount the door in the final phase.

Assembly steps

To know where to start work, it is worth familiarizing yourself with its stages. Most closets are assembled according to the following algorithm:

• basement
• case
• installation of the back wall,
• installation of shelves and rails,
• installation of compartment doors.

After the completed steps, the implementation of internal additional elements is carried out. These include pull-out baskets, drawers, rods, hanging hooks and pantographs. Consider installing each cabinet element separately.

Cap

The assembly of sliding door wardrobes, the video of which is presented below, starts from the bottom, which accounts for the entire load during operation. We find the part that will perform this function, and put it in front of us. In order for the process to go correctly, we use tools such as screwdrivers or a screwdriver, a hexagon, a pencil and a tape measure for marking. Also check for the presence of self-tapping screws and special camouflage plugs.

The action algorithm looks like this:

• on the part for the bottom there is a place for installing the base,
• sometimes instead of base planks, adjustable legs are used, the place for which also needs to be marked,
• drill holes for fasteners,
• we attach the bottom to the slats with the help of confirmations (corners) - for this, screws and a screwdriver are used,
• We collect the transverse supports of the base, designed for stability.

Some products, such as the Phoenix coupe models, require installation with adjustable legs. It is simple to do: plastic plugs are cut with a knife, and the legs themselves are screwed into the holes 10 mm in diameter prepared at the bottom.

Depending on the size of the assembled closet, the number of legs will be adjustable. So, for large planes, more than 6 support elements are required.

Housing

Before disassembling and assembling sliding wardrobes from scratch, it is important to familiarize yourself with the general structure of the existing product. Carefully study the circuit, because the assembly of the case should ensure the safe operation of the cabinet. From how securely it is installed, the stability of the internal elements will matter.

In order for the furniture assembly to be accurate, you should additionally check the floor surface for evenness. Use the construction level: if there are differences on the floor - tighten the adjustable legs. Only then assemble the product box.

To qualitatively carry out the installation of the housing, follow these steps:

• it is better to assemble the product while standing, because in a lying position it is very difficult to mount a perfectly fitted cabinet. But it’s important to remember that for complete assembly it is necessary to leave a minimum of 100 mm for the installation of the roof,
• in the part that is responsible for the bottom, you must first drill several holes and insert the anchor. Rack mounts will be mounted on the installed fasteners,
• installation of the stand panels is carried out by two: in order not to get confused, you can view the assembly instructions for the sliding wardrobe presented in the video material. First, the left sidewall is inserted, one person holds it while the second inserts the right sidewall,
• at the next stage, the average stand, if it is present, is mounted. After its installation, the roof is installed. If the cabinet is assembled in a standing position, then this part will be fixed correctly to corners or confirmations.

It’s a little more difficult to assemble a wardrobe of the maestro’s model, which has many functions. Its installation is carried out slowly, preferably by several people.

Rear wall installation

To assemble the compartment yourself, in particular, attach the back wall of the product, you must correctly select the consumables - fasteners. Often, assemblers use improperly selected consumables, which is why over time the panel from the fiberboard departs from the furniture product. In Soviet times, the hardboard on the back wall was collected using nails, which is undesirable today.

For greater reliability, fasten the fiberboard wall to the cabinet using self-tapping screws. This is how the product will not be damaged during operation.

When assembling furniture for yourself, it is important to make a high-quality assembly of your wardrobe with your own hands: the video, which is presented below, clearly shows all the complex nuances. Perform the following manipulations:

• pull the panel from hardboard behind the closet,
• holding the sheet with your hands, use short self-tapping screws and screw them at a distance of 10-20 cm with a screwdriver or screwdriver.

If the cabinet has several rear walls at once, they must be butt-mounted. Use special tightening fasteners, and then screw the screws on the back of the middle bar.

Mounting shelves and rails

So that you do not have to disassemble the product and redo your work, check the reliability and stability of the frame, and then proceed with filling with internal elements: shelves, rods, drawers and guides. It is possible to engage in self-assembly of a sliding wardrobe according to the video, which is at the bottom of the article. It visually provides information about all the important points of the process.

You should pay attention to such nuances:

• shelf fastening can be done with the help of corners and screws. For this, drilled holes already exist on the parts themselves. First we note the distance between the shelves and fasten them to the sidewalls and the central pillar,
• First, the upper rails for the doors are installed, after which the lower rails are mounted. It is worth emphasizing that the installation of these elements should be carried out strictly in a straight line - the correct course of the doors will depend on this,
• the rod is mounted on special flanges that come with it. If necessary, the length of the pipe is filed with a hacksaw for metal. If the assembly of the fortune model’s cabinet takes place, you should pay attention to a large number of elements and not to confuse them,
• drawers and drawers are inserted into the product after attaching the mechanisms for their operation.

Before you mount the internal filling yourself, check the availability of all accessories and consumables.

Determine the purpose of the panels

Carefully inspect the panels on both sides to ensure that blind holes and additional markings are not missed. First of all, you need to determine the bottom (bottom) of the wardrobe. There are two types of bottoms: with and without adjustable legs. If you have legs in the kit with the hardware, then the bottom can be identified by special blind or through holes with a diameter of about 10 mm, where they are inserted. Some types of legs are not inserted into the holes, but are fastened with screws, in which case there will be a marking under them on the plane.

The bottom (bottom) of the cabinet without legs has a slightly different design. Its basis is the side panels and special strips (plinths) with a width of 50 to 100 mm, which are located along the perimeter of the bottom and do not allow it to fall through under load. In this case, the bottom will have additional holes for dowels for attaching the base.

Having decided on the bottom, you can immediately postpone the upper panel (roof). In size, it will fit exactly the bottom, but with fewer holes.

The sides are easy to take away, as they will be the longest parts, but may differ in the holes for fastening the shelves. Vertical internal jumpers - they are shorter than the sidewalls and have characteristic openings for confirmations or dowels at the ends.

Shelves are identified most easily because they have the same (small) dimensions and are glued on only one (front) side. Overhead shelves are very rarely used in sliding wardrobes, so they have at least 2 openings on the ends on both sides.

Often in cabinets make 2 extra wide shelves. One stands at the bottom and is used as a stand for shoes, and the second at the top is used as a mezzanine. They also have the same size.

If you have drawers, then the details are easy to identify, since they have the smallest dimensions (width of boards about 120 mm).

Rules for installing various hardware

Often they are interested in how to assemble a wardrobe and whether it is necessary to glue wooden dowels? Note that if they are glued, then when moving or repairing, it will not work to disassemble the cabinet without damaging the fasteners. The glue does not add rigidity or structural strength, but is used only in cases where the connection is carried out only using dowels without the use of screws or minifix.

How to hammer dowels. They are installed only in the holes on the plane and in no case are clogged in the end of the chipboard, because when connected, the plate can crack. Insert them preferably by hand or with a rubber mallet. You can use a metal hammer, but be extremely careful, since it is easy to pierce the panel through with a dowel.

Minifix rods are screwed with a Phillips screwdriver. It is undesirable to tighten them with a screwdriver, since it can easily be turned in the hole and the connection will not be securely fixed. Eccentric discs are inserted after the panels are connected and the rods enter the holes. This will facilitate assembly, since if the disk is not correctly centered in advance, then the minifix rod will not fully enter the hole.

A furniture screw (confirm) should be tightened with a little effort, as it can turn in the hole. If this happens, you can use the usual matches (3 pieces) that you need to insert and seal the hole.

Assembly procedure for the sliding wardrobe

It is most convenient to assemble a wardrobe by placing it face down on the floor. But immediately you should measure the diagonal of the side panel, not its length, namely the diagonal. It should be 5 cm less than the ceiling height, otherwise the cabinet will not work. In this case, the furniture is assembled standing up and help will be needed to hold the sidewalls.

Do-it-yourself wardrobe assembly begins at the bottom. Install the legs (or socles) on the bottom panel and insert all the fixed hardware into the holes: dowels and minifix rods. Then insert all the hardware into one of the side panels and connect it to the bottom. If you have a wide cabinet, and there are vertical jumpers, install the closest panel to the sidewall already standing. After that, you can take turns installing shelves between them from the bottom up. Thus, the next jumper is installed and fixed by shelves.

Having reached the last side panel, you should pay attention to how the roof dresses. If on top, then the last panel is installed, and then the roof is put on the cabinet. If the roof is between the side panels, then the roof is installed first, and then the last side panel.

Nail the back wall

After assembling the frame, you can nail the fiberboard from the back. The manufacturer mainly makes the back wall of several parts, so first try on them so as not to be mistaken. During long-term storage, chipboard can be slightly deformed, especially for long parts (sidewalls). Therefore, there is an arc (stomach) which can be removed by correctly nailing the fiberboard.

To do this, attach it to the cabinet, find the flat side and nail it first. After aligning the curvature, nail the other side.Fiberboard is cut on sawing machines and has an almost perfect rectangular shape. Thanks to this method, you will perfectly align the cabinet by removing the diagonal curvature. To check, take a tape measure and check the diagonals of the cabinet, the permissible deviation is 5 mm per 1 m.

Often wardrobes are equipped with radius additions on the sides of the wardrobe. They have a simple design and sometimes are independent elements that are separately assembled and attached to the cabinet. This also applies to the decorative figured roof (visor), in which the backlight is mounted. Often, the structure is fastened with furniture ties.

Installation of additional elements

These include box blocks, a pipe for trempels, hooks, a pantograph, a backlight. Such elements are standard purchased products, which have their own individual installation instructions indicating all mounting sizes.

An exception is only a pipe for hangers. In width, it is attached exactly in the middle of the cabinet, but the height can be chosen arbitrary. Usually retreat from the top shelf down to 50 - 100 mm.

Door system installation

Once the assembly of the sliding door wardrobe is done, and all the elements are installed, you can proceed with the installation of the doors. Consider the most common system, it costs less than all the others, therefore it is most popular. There are 2 guides in the kit, one of which is high - mounted on the top and low with slots under the wheels - mounted on the bottom. For fastening, furniture screws 12-16 mm long with countersunk or flat head are used.

Rail Installation

The upper bar is installed flush with the end of the roof. First attach one side, align the bar to the end, and then screw the second. After that, install the remaining intermediate screws. This sequence will completely eliminate the skew of the bar.

Door adjustment

Now you need to correctly adjust them, for which there are holes and adjusting screws for the hexagon by 5 at the bottom of the doors on both sides.

Use the L-shaped key to turn the bolt clockwise or counterclockwise. Watch how the fit of the door to the sidewall changes, and make it with a minimum clearance.

When the doors are adjusted, the stoppers must be adjusted correctly. They are needed so that the doors stand motionless in the closed position. Set them in such a way that the wheel exactly hits the stopper, and the end of the door does not reach the wall about a millimeter. If there are more than one door, the extreme latches are adjusted first, and the rest are already centered on them.

When the adjustment is completed, a buffer fleece tape is glued to the side ends of the doors (on both sides). It is needed so that the doors do not hit the walls (or each other) and do not damage the chipboard. Please note that after loading the cabinet with things, it may deform a little and you will need to re-adjust the doors. → The catalog with furniture prices Borovichi will tell you how to choose a wardrobe and other furniture, be sure to look!

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Watch the video: How To Assemble A Wardrobe Insert Unit - DIY At Bunnings (December 2024).

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